When the new Board of Directors of Les Grandes Tables du Monde comes together, its members work collaboratively, drawing strength from the richness of their differences to chart a common path for the next five years. Their reflections project them into the future, guided by a shared question: “How do we envision the association in five years?” Le Cœur des Chefs explored this question through a series of testimonials that speak volumes about the collegial momentum sparked by such a diverse array of personalities.
A New Board
At the Les Grandes Tables du Monde Congress in Milan, twelve members were elected via digital vote to form the new Board of Directors, which unanimously renewed its trust in David Sinapian, reappointing him for a new five-year term as President.
The Board perfectly reflects the diversity of today’s association, with longstanding pillars such as Marc Haeberlin and Antonio Santini, guardians of its foundations, and a new generation ensuring the living legacy of family-run establishments—like Eléonore Guérard and Bérangère Loiseau in France, as well as Giovanni Alajmo in Italy and Sebastian Finkbeiner in Germany.
Nicolas Brossard and Julien Royer, who had joined mid-term, were confirmed by the vote. Jean-Alain Baccon joined the Board, along with chef-owners Emmanuel Renaut and Olivier Bellin.
A First Board Seminar in Lausanne
The new Board of Directors of Les Grandes Tables du Monde gathered in Lausanne for a first seminar dedicated to the association’s upcoming projects. Over the course of two days, members worked together, drawing on the richness of their diverse perspectives to chart a common path for the next five years. This gathering proved to be a success in both organization and guided creativity: Council members described the seminar as highly structured and of exceptional quality.
From the brainstorming sessions in Lausanne emerged a forward-looking reflection centered around a shared question: How do we envision the association in five years?
A roundtable of testimonials sheds light on the collective dynamic sparked by such a wide array of personalities.
Giovanni Alajmo, Le Calandre and Quadri (Italy) and Sesamo (Marrakech)
« I was incredibly fortunate to grow up beside my father Raf and my uncle Max, who spoke often of their encounters with the greats of gastronomy. Today, I am deeply motivated by the opportunity to work on the future of our culinary world alongside figures like Antonio Santini and Marc Haeberlin, who are mentors to me. We share a common vision of what it means to be a restaurateur, and the association helps shine a light on this profession that truly deserves it.
Our generation approaches things differently. There’s the model set by our parents, which we don’t necessarily need to replicate. Some values should be preserved, others evolved. We literally covered an entire wall with ideas. Betty Marais, the association’s General Delegate, has her work cut out for her in helping us prioritize them! That process made us realize the incredible depth of thinking that can emerge when we are all gathered together. Several projects are in the pipeline: four-hands dinners among members, the creation of an app to highlight our establishments. I’m passionate about the role of new technologies in hospitality and believe that AI can speed up tedious processes like reservation management—provided we maintain control.
We are also convinced that sustainable hospitality must be fully embedded in the association’s DNA. Many things are shifting. Unlikely gastronomic destinations are rising. In five years, fine dining establishments will need a distinct identity, agility, and sensitivity to every factor affecting our profession—but above all, they must respect the environment, their teams, and their guests. Increasingly, we need to be concrete, delivering real value at a price that makes sense. The association must help its members prepare for the changes to come. »
Eléonore Guérard, Les Prés d’Eugénie in Eugénie-les-Bains
« Though I’ve had prior experience with associations and been heavily involved elsewhere, I came to Les Grandes Tables du Monde with fresh eyes and a strong desire to contribute. As hoteliers and restaurateurs, we can sometimes feel a bit isolated in an ever-changing world. Humbly, I began by observing, then gradually integrated, before expressing my views.
Over these two days, I met extraordinary people, each different, with a willingness to persuade without ever imposing. We were asked to focus on projects we care about for the next five years, to define how we see the association and our role in it. David and Betty had already done some groundwork and asked us to challenge it. We added new topics and prioritized them together.
We have a dual mission: to better promote the association to the public, and to support our members by responding to their needs. This also includes practical steps, like recommending helpful tools and suppliers to one another. The association is becoming a true resource hub for peers. This spirit of camaraderie, whether you’re a legacy member or a newcomer, is the essence of Les Grandes Tables du Monde.
When we were all together at the Beau-Rivage, Julien Royer reminded us how our establishments evoke deep emotion through fleeting experiences. My father used to say that a great table is like a theatre, and I truly carry forward his vision of being a ‘merchant of happiness.’ »
Jean-Alain Baccon, le K2 à Courchevel :
« We all share the same drive to bring this association to life in a collaborative way that resonates with every member. We come from different worlds, and that diversity is our strength. Olivier Bellin, located on the tip of Brittany, has a very different daily reality than I do at Le K2, where 95% of our clientele is international. Yet our vision transcends borders. Whether in France, Germany, Italy, Asia, or the Americas, similar themes emerge. We train young people in our establishments, and the expectations of our guests are remarkably aligned.
Some come for a meal, others for a full week, but they all want exceptional experiences, tailored just for them. We share a passion for this profession that lets people forget the everyday, if only for an evening. Our goal is to bring joy and make guests long to return.
We each brought forward ideas on how the association can support its members. Two key proposals I stand by: first, facilitating staff exchanges. By posting vacancies on the association’s site and enabling cross-house applications, we help our teams grow. When young staff return from abroad, they come back transformed. Second, many members already organize four-hands events at home and abroad. The association should amplify communication around these collaborations. »
Bérangère Loiseau, Relais Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu
« I didn’t know the inner workings of the association all that well, but I had a burning desire to get involved. During these two days, we unleashed a cascade of coherent ideas. The brainstorming approach was practical and efficient in surfacing what our members expect from the association in the years to come. It helped us project ourselves forward.
The board is well balanced: it blends founders and a new generation, all united in looking ahead. Our perspectives differ, yet align. There’s always this care for others and for excellence. Some are chef-owners of family houses passed down through generations; others are restaurateurs who don’t cook. But our ultimate focus is always the same: the guest.
Julien Royer opened our eyes to the international perspective, emphasizing how strong the sense of belonging is abroad. Though born from French art de vivre, the association now embodies a global presence. Its purpose must be clear—both to members and to guests. I believe it’s our responsibility to champion haute cuisine in its full ecosystem: all professions, local producers, all rooted in transmission. Each fine dining establishment has a real impact on its local area, serving as an echo chamber for its surroundings.
To remain relevant today, we discussed digital strategies and mentoring emerging establishments. More than any other initiative, four-hands dinners embody the spirit of Les Grandes Tables du Monde. The essence of the association lies in team friendships and shared guest experiences. »
Olivier Bellin, Auberge des Glazicks in Plomodiern
« I wanted to represent the voice of the ‘small great houses.’ A minor issue in a big-city restaurant can become a major crisis in a small rural inn like ours, located at the very edge of Brittany. After reflecting for a few months, I decided to run for the board, now refreshingly renewed with young voices.
It’s a truly collective group, with strong personalities, visionary ideas, and firm convictions—but a shared ambition: to leave a lasting impression in our guests’ memories. There will surely be some fiery debates, but we can count on the wisdom of Antonio Santini or Marc Haeberlin to bring perspective. There’s great listening and a desire to move forward together, adapting to today’s world.
Gastronomy is undergoing profound transformation. Our role is to propel the association into this evolving world. Never losing sight of guest expectations, we must involve the younger generation in every project, respect the environment, and nurture our relationships with local producers. For me, short supply chains are a mark of modernity—that is today’s luxury. We also discussed ideas like an Erasmus-style staff exchange program, and highlighting culinary schools worldwide that train tomorrow’s chefs. »
The “Small Great Houses”
When he spoke at the last general assembly, Olivier Bellin moved many members, as President David Sinapian explained: « It was incredibly relevant, because many—both in France and abroad—identify with these types of restaurants where the chef is also the host, welcoming guests into his own home. That’s the hat every member wears when speaking on behalf of Les Grandes Tables du Monde. »
David Sinapian, Groupe Pic
« Sixteen candidates for the board—we’d never seen that before. It proves just how eager members are to get involved »
David Sinapian, President of Les Grandes Tables du Monde.
When he first ran ten years ago, David Sinapian promoted two guiding principles: every member must define themselves first as a restaurateur (even if also the chef), and the association must embrace international growth while preserving its spirit of friendship. Looking ahead to his new term, he reflects: « Today, the debate is settled. Chef or not, each member sees themselves as a restaurateur, coordinating all aspects of their establishment. And international expansion is no longer a choice—it’s a reality. Today, 60% of members are from outside France.
We can now go further. I’m delighted this new board is so collaborative. The association has reached a level of maturity, with a clear direction and the strength of a united collective. We realized we need to better balance initiatives that foster camaraderie and those that increase visibility for the association and its members. The Board will define how we calibrate those priorities. »
The Milan Congress
The eleven new members for 2025 were welcomed during the Milan Congress, hosted by Milanese chefs and supported by their Neapolitan colleagues, who brought warmth and « generosità » to the event—including a competitive panettone tasting at Voce, with Fabio Pisani and Alessandro Negrini. The 70th Congress will take place in Athens from October 12 to 15, 2025.
Beyond Borders
This is no longer a « French association opening up to the world »: Today, it truly belongs to its 198 members across the globe. « Many restaurants want to join us, » confides David Sinapian. « This year, we had about twenty applicants and selected eleven: three French and eight international, each with a strong identity. » For 70 years, friendship has been the unifying thread among these diverse restaurants. Concluding the Milan Congress, Nadia Santini shared a heartfelt truth: « Thanks to Les Grandes Tables du Monde, we know we are part of a great family—one that knows no borders. »
Association Les Grandes Tables du Monde : Déléguée Générale : Betty Marais
Photos portraits : Léo Ridet excepted B&W pictures : @LE COEUR DES CHEFS / JP Garabedian